[29.11.2021, 20:07:24] Sylvia Borin: When directly generated and affected by local winds, a wind wave system is called a wind sea. After the wind ceases to blow, wind waves are called swells. More generally, a swell consists of wind-generated waves that are not significantly affected by the local wind at that time. They have been generated elsewhere or some time ago.
[29.11.2021, 20:09:48] Sylvia Borin: Ocean waves can be classified based on: the disturbing force(s) that create(s) them; the extent to which the disturbing force(s) continue(s) to influence them after formation; the extent to which the restoring force(s) weaken(s) (or flatten) them; and their wavelength or period.
[29.11.2021, 20:12:00] Sylvia Borin: Gravity
The speed of all ocean waves is controlled by gravity, wavelength, and water depth. Most characteristics of ocean waves depend on the relationship between their wavelength and water depth. Wavelength determines the size of the orbits of water molecules within a wave, but water depth determines the shape of the orbits. The paths of water molecules in a wind wave are circular only when the wave is traveling in deep water. A wave cannot "feel" the bottom when it moves through water deeper than half its wavelength because too little wave energy is contained in the small circles below that depth. Waves moving through water deeper than half their wavelength are known as deep-water waves. On the other hand, the orbits of water molecules in waves moving through shallow water are flattened by the proximity of the sea surface bottom. Waves in water shallower than 1/20 their original wavelength are known as shallow-water waves. Transitional waves travel through water deeper than 1/20 their original wavelength but shallower than half their original wavelength. In general, the longer the wavelength, the faster the wave energy will move through the water.
[29.11.2021, 20:14:30] Sylvia Borin: A wind generated wave can be predicted based on two parameters: wind speed at 10 m above the sea level and wind duration, which must blow over long periods of time to be considered fully developed.
[29.11.2021, 20:18:06] Sean: I enjoyed it thoroughly thank you for sharing AND think I am a bit more informed a human
[29.11.2021, 20:18:32] Sean: I think it is relatable, I am going to read it again in a bit, it's rather poetic, who knew science could be so
[29.11.2021, 20:34:34] Sylvia Borin: Good. It’s interesting mechanics really
[29.11.2021, 20:34:54] Sylvia Borin: How the amount of wind is in direct correlation with the surge
[29.11.2021, 20:35:23] Sylvia Borin: Create waves!
[29.11.2021, 20:56:38] Sylvia Borin: I read science text for work. I really enjoy it.
[29.11.2021, 21:15:15] Sean: science is sexy